Shout out to the mental gymnastics sociologists did in addressing this with the idea of "food deserts."

I still remember my two classmates all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and ready to study food deserts and prove systemic racism against black people. Professors were salivating to advise the paper.

It was dead in about four weeks. Every preliminary analysis concluded that people had access to good food, they just made mind-bogglingly bad choices.

I think about that a lot. The data were so bad these Olympic-level mental gymnasts just gave up almost immediately.