From what I understand the device has to indicate it can be turned off so it's unlikely that any of those power settings was the real change. You should never have to change any settings to get a non-shingled USB drive to work at normal speed.
With shingled drives like you have (probably your old Seagates are also) it's very easy to believe you fixed a setting when really the drive just decided to relocate and free up a bunch of write space while you were researching settings to change, or something like that. For instance you can copy a file, delete it, and a second copy take 10x longer - or vice verse - entirely due to the drive's internal state. Even for reads, a file may be scattered about a temporary space and very slow to read, then in the background made sequential by writing to the actual shingle tracks.
From what I can tell the main thing for shingled drives is to leave it plugged in for long periods so that drive can do it's background cleanup, and also never fill it up (I'd never get under 10% for any reason) as the more full it is the more cascading writes it'll have to do. Other than that you're at the whim of this opaque and undocumented shingle process. Even defragmenting could end up with a slower drive, depending on how the drive firmware is designed.
If you want to tweak settings, the one I would change is to enable write caching. This will make writes more sequential or even avoid some writes, which doesn't really matter much for CMR but can be a huge boost for shingled. You'll need to "safely remove device" but I would NEVER just yank out a shingled drive anyway as at any time it may be doing something important.
Yeah if you get a lot of crashes, but it's actually pretty hard to screw up NTFS and it flushes the cache way more often than Linux. I think Linux is generally set up for 2 min flush and Windows is even faster like 30 second or a minute maybe?
Honestly guy just has to accept that the drive is a turkey ^_^ and only use it for hoarding.
From what I understand the device has to indicate it can be turned off so it's unlikely that any of those power settings was the real change. You should never have to change any settings to get a non-shingled USB drive to work at normal speed.
With shingled drives like you have (probably your old Seagates are also) it's very easy to believe you fixed a setting when really the drive just decided to relocate and free up a bunch of write space while you were researching settings to change, or something like that. For instance you can copy a file, delete it, and a second copy take 10x longer - or vice verse - entirely due to the drive's internal state. Even for reads, a file may be scattered about a temporary space and very slow to read, then in the background made sequential by writing to the actual shingle tracks.
From what I can tell the main thing for shingled drives is to leave it plugged in for long periods so that drive can do it's background cleanup, and also never fill it up (I'd never get under 10% for any reason) as the more full it is the more cascading writes it'll have to do. Other than that you're at the whim of this opaque and undocumented shingle process. Even defragmenting could end up with a slower drive, depending on how the drive firmware is designed.
If you want to tweak settings, the one I would change is to enable write caching. This will make writes more sequential or even avoid some writes, which doesn't really matter much for CMR but can be a huge boost for shingled. You'll need to "safely remove device" but I would NEVER just yank out a shingled drive anyway as at any time it may be doing something important.
write caching is a bad idea with the stability of w10/11, IMO. rest is quality post 10/10
Yeah if you get a lot of crashes, but it's actually pretty hard to screw up NTFS and it flushes the cache way more often than Linux. I think Linux is generally set up for 2 min flush and Windows is even faster like 30 second or a minute maybe?
Honestly guy just has to accept that the drive is a turkey ^_^ and only use it for hoarding.